Motoconchos for Dummies: A Gringa’s Guide to the Public Transportation System of the Dominican Republic

Getting from point A to point B is perhaps the most difficult part about living in the Dominican Republic. For the first two weeks, I was absolutely terrified of the public transportation system (if you can even call it a system). Now a seasoned resident of Santiago, DR, I will share with you everything I know. 

We’ll start with the basics. There are five different types of vehicles in the Dominican Republic. Each type can be classified by 1) Speed 2) Carrying Capacity and 3) Comfort.

Pasola— more commonly referred to as a “mo-ped,” the pasola is the baby of motos here in the Dominican Republic and my ride to work every morning. Dani drives and I grab onto the back. The first misconception among gringo travelers (especially females) is that you hold on to the driver. Thanks to quality movies like The Lizzie McGuire Movie and When in Rome, we see riding a mo-ped as a romantic adventure. It’s far from that. Rule #1: Never hold on to the driver. Grab the seat, and hold on for dear life. Holding the driver may distract him or her from the road, which is the last thing you want to do. After fastening my helmet tightly to my head, I throw one leg over the left side of the bike. Rule #2: Never try to get on from the right side. That’s where the exhaust pipe is, and it get’s very hot. Failure to follow this rule may result in a nasty burn.  Once I am situated comfortably on the back of the bike, I put my feet on the two small pedals that stick out from the side of the pasola. Then, we go. And that’s that. The first time Dani and I rode to work on the pasola, we stopped at the Caribe Tours bus station to pick up a package that had been sent from the central office. As he got back on the bike, he handed the package to me as if it was no big deal for me to hold on AND carry his package at the same time. I legitimately thought I might fly off the back. Word on the street is that Dani likes to levantar (jump) his pasola. I’m pretty sure he has it figured out that he better not try those tricks when carrying precious cargo like myself. So far, he’s been pretty well behaved.

Speed: 45 km/hr          Carrying Capacity: Max 4      Comfort: 2*

*On a scale of 1-10

Posing with the pasola outside our office

Moto— If the pasola is the baby of transportation methods, the Moto is the adolescent boy. Moto drivers think they own the road, so you better steer clear if confronted by one of these. Higher off the ground than a pasola, motos are much more comfortable to ride. In fact, I actually really enjoy riding motos. Since our family doesn’t own a moto, the only way to ride one is to hail a motoconcho.

Speed: 60 km/hr          Carrying Capacity: Max 5 adults and 1 child (no joke)       Comfort: 4

Camioneta— A camioneta is a pick-up truck. People take pride in their camionetas. Helen has a bright blue camioneta that she drives every day. Since Helen is the boss of both the Santiago branch office and the Puerto Plata branch office, she does A LOT of driving. The camioneta is perfect for taking the back dirt roads. Helen lives only a few minutes from the Peniche’s house and sometimes offers to pick me up on her way to the office. I think she’s figured out that I am eternally grateful every time she does. Sometimes, we drive alongside Dani and laugh at him struggling to pick up speed on his pasola. It’s funny except when I’m the one on the pasola.

Speed: 100 km/hr        Carrying Capacity: 1-20 adults (Max 9 inside, 11 in the back)    Comfort: 8 (inside)  

Helen's camioneta

Camioneta carrying pineapples--4 for $1.32!

Camión— A camion is the Spanish word for a truck. Usually, they’re big pickup trucks used to haul garbage, goods, or whatever else you need to transport. I’ve never ridden in a camion (and probably won’t), but knowing the lingo is essential.

Speed: 90 km/hr          Carrying Capacity: Max 10 (inside, outside used for cargo)        Comfort: 5

Gua Gua— the Dominican word for “bus.” A gua gua can range in size from a pick up truck (sometimes referred to as the office gua gua) to a Caribe Tours fancy air-conditioned commercial transport bus. Caribe Tours is by far the best way to travel, but this service is only available to and from relatively large cities. Local gua guas can be taken to smaller, more remote towns, but make frequent stops. If you’re going to take a local gua gua, it’s best to be-friend the driver so he can tell you when to get off. You may also want to ask what time the gua gua comes back for it’s return trip. The only person that really knows is the driver.

Speed: variable (may have to push)       Carrying Capacity: variable—Local gua guas meant for 20 people often fit as many as 45 passengers!)      Comfort: 6

Carro Público— If you’re in a big city, you can take taxis (if you know who to call!) However, taxi drivers will charge you and arm and a leg, so most locals choose the less expensive, more rustic carros públicos, or public cars. The typical public car is a 1985 Toyota Camry. Often, they have been so weathered that the doors only open from the outside. It’s not a problem, just stick your hand out the window and grab hold of the handle from the outside. Also, beware of the springs that may pop out of the back of the seat unexpectedly. I learned that one the hard way. Public cars have set routes with corresponding letters. Drivers pay a weekly fee to stick the letter on their car. If possible, avoid taking public cars after 8:00 PM.  This is when the “chofers” who have not been officially licensed try to make a little cash. Carros públicos do not deter from their routes, so if you want to change directions, you must switch cars. For example, the public car that passes outside of my office is the ZP. The one that passes outside of the house is the E. Dani and I have taken the carros públicos a few times, but I’m still not entirely sure where to get out of the ZP to transfer to the E. With time, I’m sure I will will. Drivers of public cars charge a set rate of 20 DP (about $0.53 USD) per ride. Just hand your coin to the “chofer” when you get in and tell him when you’re ready to jump out. Don’t be alarmed if he pulls over to pick up another passenger if the back seat is already full. Three people fit comfortably in the front seat and four will fit in the back as long as the third person sits on one cheek. 

Speed: 50 km/hr          Carrying Capacity: 7             Comfort: 4

Motoconcho— translated as “moto-taxi,” motoconchos are by far the most fun form of public transportation. There are set motoconcho stands where drivers are lined up and eager to drive you across the city, or even to the next town over if you’re willing to pay a little extra. While motoconchos are fun, they are also very dangerous, so I try not to take them unless I’m with a loan officer. If the loan officer feels comfortable taking the motoconcho, I do too. Hardly anyone wears helmets here (especially if they’re not the ones driving), so I look pretty gringa when I pull out my casco. But you know what? I don’t care, because I’d really rather be safe! A standard motoconcho ride will cost you about 25 DP, ($0.66 USD) but you may get your ride for free if the driver likes you.

Speed: 70 km/hr          Carrying Capacity: 4             Comfort: 5          Fun Factor: 10

If I were to describe my life in the DR in one word, it would be spontaneity. Living abroad, I’ve had to throw all inhibitions to the wind and just do as the Dominicans do. Whether it’s jumping on the back of a moto, cramming into a public car, or taking a gua gua up north, every new experience is exciting and different. This is the time of my life I am going to look back on and say, “wow was I crazy or what?” 

Oh how Dominicans love resorts.

When the world thinks of the Dominican Republic, they think all-inclusive resorts. Apparently so do Dominicans. I don’t know why this shocked me so much, but Dominicans will give just about anything to spend a weekend at a resort.  I’ve always told myself that having seen the poverty in this country, I’d never go to Punta Cana. After three weeks of cold showers, nothing but rice, beans, and yucca, and lack of air-conditioning, a resort sounded pretty amazing.

The gua gua (Dominican word for bus) left at 5:00 AM on Thursday morning and arrived in Punta Cana around noon. Thank goodness for my extensive collection of Hannah Montana and High School Musical soundtracks on my iPod (thanks to having an eight year old cousin…obviously ;)) because I was able to entertain my coworkers’ adorable kids for the entire seven hour bus ride south (see my new friend below!) The hotel was definitely a locals’ resort. There were a few gringos around, but mostly Dominicans looking for a relaxing weekend at the beach.  The best part about the entire weekend wasn’t the food or the beaches, but the company.  I met loan officers and administrators from offices around the country and got to see the other interns as well!

I got back to Santiago around 9:00 PM on Saturday. Brunilda (one of the loan officers in my office) was nice enough to call me a taxi, so I had no problem making it back to the house. On Sunday morning, I went to church with my host family. We go to church a lot here, and most services last nearly 3 hours! The church we go to is very nice, and the congregation has been extremely welcoming. The templo biblico is an evangelical church, so it’s very different from my church at home, but there have been a few times when I’ve recognized a familiar hymn or contemporary worship song (translated to Spanish, of course!). The only thing I don’t think I’ll ever get used to is that the women cover their heads during the services. I asked my host sister why they do this, and she explained to me that it comes from a passage in 1 Corinthians 11, which they take as doctrine. My host mom gave me a scarf to wear and a hair clip to keep it in place for yesterday’s service. I wore it out of respect, but it definitely made me feel a little uncomfortable.

Every Monday night, my host mother Pilar and I cook dinner together. She says she wants to add a little variety to the dishes she makes, and what better way to do that then to try a few American dishes! Last week, we made spaghetti. It tasted delicious, but I had to improvise on the ingredients a little bit. First and foremost, I made ground beef out of frozen steaks. I also managed to make the entire meal using one burner. Tonight, I’m making my mom’s amazing chicken salad. I’m hoping it will be as big of a hit as the spaghetti!

My Dominican family with the spaghetti--Sara, Pilar, Rafael and David

This week, I’ll mostly be in the office and in the field, writing KIVA journals and conducting interviews at bank meetings. Helen (the boss) told me she might take me with her to the Puerto Plata office tomorrow. “Si Dios quiere,” (as they say here) I will be road-tripping to the north for the day!

Paradise in Tarzan’s Treehouse

For as worried as I was about finding my way to Cabarete, it really wasn’t that difficult. I had to hand over $450 DP (about $12 USD) to the taxi driver to get me to the hotel, but by that point I wasn’t really feeling up to a bargaining match.

We stayed at a great place called Ali’s Surf Camp, buried in the tropical forest ten minutes from the beach. Our cabin was called “Tarzan’s Treehouse,” and it was the perfect place to spend the weekend. We went surfing on Saturday morning and spent the rest of the afternoon lounging by the pool.

After a stressful week of work, this weekend was just what I needed. I got to relax on a beautiful beach, speak in English, and catch up with the other interns. Everyone is having very different yet exciting experiences, and it was fun to hear their stories. We’ve all had our share of difficult encounters with Dominican culture (especially the dominicanismos that make Dominican Spanish so difficult to understand). My shining moment was when we went surfing on Saturday morning. I decided to take a lesson since I hadn’t surfed in a while. The instructor’s name was Ezekiel and after we got to talking, I found out he was from Barahona, the town I traveled to with National Presbyterian Church during high school.

[Pause Story]

There is a very important cultural connotation associated with being an American in the Dominican Republic. Besides the fact that I’m a “gringa,” I’m also an “Americana”—a critical distinction to make. In addition to “Ay gringa” or “Hey Blondie” (yeah you heard me right, I’d never get that one at home!) I also hear this one: “Ey mángame la visa!” It took me FOREVER to figure out what they were saying. It’s a reference to a popular YouTube video made last year about finding an Americana to get your visa into the US.  Getting an American visa is nearly impossible from the DR and thus is a relatively taboo topic, especially in the Christian community. Since I learned the phrase, Pa’ Manga la Visa, I’ve been asked for a visa at least twenty times.

[Resume Story]

Anyways, I was having this conversation with Ezekiel the surf instructor and I asked him if he’d ever been to the United States. I knew the answer was probably no, but it’s a good conversation starter. He said, “No but one day I’d like to.”  I turned around and there was a HUGE wave approaching. There was no way I was going to let it go.  I yelled, “Just tell me when!” (in reference to the wave) but he thought I meant just tell me when we can go to the US and answered, mañana (tomorrow)? WHOOPS. He quickly figured out what I was referring to and just laughed.

This week is a short work week, thank goodness! Esperanza International has our annual “Retiro Familiar” where everyone retreats to Punta Cana for the weekend. There are appreciation dinners where loan officers and managers are thanked for their service to the organization as well as food, food, and more food! At least that’s what they tell me! Be back Saturday!

There’s no doubt “I’m a GRINGA.”

As if I wasn’t already more than aware of the fact that my skin is a pale shade of white, the Dominicans always find a way to remind me once again. In the Dominican Republic, people are frequently described by the way they look. Being called “gordita” (little fat one), “falquita” (little thin one), or “morena” (dark skinned/dark hair) are not considered to be insults nor complements. They’re simpy terms of identification. Needless to say, I am “la gringa.” I’ve actually started answering to it, as if “gringa” is my name. I know they don’t mean for it to be negative, but I can’t say I’m particularly fond of this label. Perhaps I’m the first gringa many of these people have ever seen, which would explain why they look at me like I'm an attraction at the zoo.

Yesterday morning, Daniel (my host brother and coworker) and I were waiting outside the house for Helen (the boss) to come pick us up when a little girl walked up to me and handed me a little yellow flower. She had three in her hand, which I assumed she was planning to give to her little Dominican boyfriend, but instead she gave it to me. I thanked her and asked her what her name was. Without hesitation, she looked at me and said “tu eres blanca” (you are white), and I said, “yes I know.” This morning, the same little girl ran up to me and gave me a giant hug. She didn’t say anything, but I know we’re going to be friends.

This weekend, the interns are all traveling to Cabarete on the north coast of the island. It’s a small town known for their beaches and surfing. Even though I’ve had two surfing lessons in my lifetime, I’m still quite the novice, but I’m hoping I can catch a few waves. More than anything, I am excited to reunite with the other interns, share stories, and have two days to speak English! What a blessing! I leave tomorrow morning on a bus from Santiago to Sosua, which is about twenty-five minutes away from Cabarete. Somehow, I’ll find a taxi (preferably not a motoconcho, or mototaxi) to Cabarete. “God willing” (as the Dominicans frequently say), everything will go according to plan!

More to come next week on my journey to Cabarete as well as the ins and outs of how to ride a moto. YES. I’ve ridden a mo-ped. Multiple times. It is scary, thrilling, and surreal all at once. Details to come!

Estoy entre Dominicanos

 So sorry to leave you hanging for the past few days…in case you were wondering, I did make it safely to Santiago. I took the right bus, got off at the right stop and everything.

My first few days in Santiago have been a struggle, to say the least.  I am, for better or for worse (100% for better), my mother’s daughter, and I don’t do well with being far from home.  My parents and I joke (although I think it is probable) that as soon as my mom retires, we will buy houses right next door to each other so we never have to be more than a short walk apart.  Since this blog is a place where I plan to be completely honest, I must tell you that I have cried for the past three days straight. My mom can attest to that. In fact, I’ve been on Skype for a total of about 8 hours in the past two days. While I know this kind of a reaction to a new culture is completely normal, it doesn’t make it any easier. What keeps me going is knowing that I am here for a reason, whether I know that reason or not, this summer will be an invaluable experience I will have with me for the rest of my life. So when I saw a beautiful billboard this morning with MIAMI (written in all caps) as an advertisement for American Airlines, I knew that while at that moment I would have given anything to get on that plane and fly back to my family, I am in the right place. I am entre dominicanos or among Dominicans, as my host family likes to say, and I am so lucky to be here.

My host sister Sara is absolutely AMAZING. She’s 21 years old and calls me her hermanita (little sister). The first day I was here, she told me she’d always wanted a little sister, and now she has one.  Last night, she and a few of her friends from church took me to see the monument in Santiago (the one and only tourist destination of this city). It was absolutely beautiful, and we could look out above the entire city. I also have two brothers, Dani and David, both of whom are very nice. My host parents, Rafael and Pilar, are so sweet and have put up beautifully with my sudden outbursts of homesickness over the past few days. We live in a small house located on the second floor of the church (where Rafael is the pastor). On the third floor, there is a school that is also associated with the church. I wake up every morning to the sounds of roosters (we have three that we often have to shoo out of the kitchen) and children arriving at school.

 Me, Sara, Emanuel, and David at the Monument!

While I haven’t been here long enough to truly understand my work routine, I have seen a few very cool bank meetings so far.  On Thursday, Dani and I drove up to Puerto Plata on the north coast where we visited a few schools with Milton (from the central office) as part of the Edify program with Hope International that is working to set up loans to schools here in the DR.  We also attended a “reconocimiento” which is the meeting right before the “entrega” when the people actually sign the paperwork for their loans. One of the best things about Esperanza is that they don’t just give loans. They also educate. They hold several meetings during which they teach the clients about how to run a business, how to account for their earnings and expenses, etc. prior to the actual disbursement of the loan.

My first "entrega" and Kiva photo!

Tomorrow I will start my first full week of work. I’m hoping it will be everything I expected it to be and that I will be able to establish a routine quickly. For now, the endless Skype dates will continue. I just have to trust that God will protect me every minute of this journey and remember that I shouldn’t spend what little time I have here worried and homesick. Now, I’m going to my second church service of the day…

Besos

Fill us up and send us out...

After two days of training, five educational sessions, and countless servings of rice and beans, I am leaving for Santiago, will I will live for the remainder of my time here in the DR.  Over the past three days, I have been continuously impressed by the work Esperanza is doing, and I am so lucky to be a part of it for the summer. The central office is filled with happy people, people that truly enjoy their work, which I am sure will be true of the branch offices as well.  This summer, my project as the Communications Intern in the Santiago branch office is multidimensional. First, I’ll be interviewing loan recipients to track their progress, obstacles, and successes.  Then, I will be writing Kiva journals, which give lenders in the US and around the world information about their loan recipients and progress reports. I’ll also be writing many success stories for the new Esperanza website, which we will be launching in just a few weeks! On the side, I’ll be teaching English to a few of the loan officers in my branch office, who are apparently dying to learn. Finally, I’ll be working on few social networking projects.  The best part about it is that even though we’re in different cities, I get to work closely with Rachael, who I’ve been rooming with this week. Hopefully I’ll get the chance to visit her in Samaná. Just Google it and you’ll see why!

Rachael and I outside of the Esperanza International central office in Santo Domingo

Having only been here for a few days, I’m already diving into the Dominican Culture.  THE FOOD IS INCREDIBLE. The central office orders lunch from a man named Franklin every day. He is arguably the best cook in the world. I’ve been so spoiled with his catered lunches this week! Lunch lasts about an hour and a half. It’s only supposed to last an hour, but we’re on Dominican time, so anything goes. After they finish eating, they have what is called sobremesa, or “over the table” where they just sit and talk. Yesterday during sobremesa our friend Eladia taught us tons of Dominican slang. Pretty soon and I’ll be talking like a local! The Dominican form of Spanish is extremely colloquial, which can be difficult, but I think that’s what makes it so fun.

Last night, the interns went out to dinner to celebrate our last night in Santo Domingo and the beginning of our summers in the field. It’s rainy season here, so it’s not uncommon for it to be sunny one moment and pouring the next. Just as we were finishing dinner, it started to torrentially DOWNPOUR out of nowhere. We were eating on el Conde so we had about a fifteen-minute walk back to our hotel. We waited for about ten minutes, and as soon as we sensed a break in the storm, decided to run home. About two blocks from the restaurant, it started raining again. The word “raining” doesn’t really do this experience justice. It wasn’t until we got back to the hotel that we found out what we had just run through was a tropical depression. As we approached the main road, ducking under awnings splashing through the puddles, we realized it was time to forget about getting wet and just make the most of this adventure. Taxis were lined up. Drivers were holding on to their cars to keep them from washing down the road that now closely resembled a raging river. We looked around, wondering what the best way to handle this situation would be. Dominicans seemed less phased by this than we were. They simply took off their shoes and walked through the six inches of water between them and the other side of the street. Dodging cars like Frogger, we decided to do the same. As soon as we crossed the river, we grabbed on to the nearest fence, climbed onto the ledge, and made our way around the block to the other side. As we walked into the front door of the hotel, the nice man at the front desk just looked at us, pointed, and laughed. Dominicans hate the rain. Women put on shower caps at the first sign of a drizzle. This was no drizzle. At least he had a sense of humor.

At noon, my bus departs for Santiago. My host mom will be waiting for me at the bus stop (assuming I get off at the right stop) to take me to their home. I am so excited to meet my new Dominican family! Hásta la próxima!

Meet the Interns!

I've honestly never been so hot and sticky in my life.  Becca tells me Dominicans often shower three times a day, which I completely support. Cold showers are the best way to cool off.  Today, Aaron showed us around Santo Domingo again. We are so lucky to have him, because this city is tough to navigate! 

It’s time to meet the interns: (As pictured) Shane, me, Rachael, Robin, Cooper, and David.

We are so excited to travel around the country visiting one another at the different field offices this summer. They are stationed in: Santo Domingo, Samana, El Seibo, La Romana, and San Pedro de Macoris. Rachael is my roommate for the next few days, and I am so excited to get to know her this summer! We discovered the hotel restaurant this morning for breakfast, which just hit the spot!

Rachael, Trinity San Antonio, Class of 2013

Tonight, we have our intern orientation and we’ll be going to a huge concert in the center of the city. Time for a nap in the meantime…

Beautiful Country, Beautiful People

One problem-free day of traveling later and I am at my hotel enjoying the luxurious privilege of wifi, so excited to be here, and even more excited to spend the next two months in this beautiful country.

My morning started out around 6:30 AM as I left my house, early as always, my mother insisting we could have left a half hour later and still have made it in time for my 8:20 flight.  Who can blame me for being excited? While this was an international flight, I was only flying to Miami, so there was no need to follow the “two hours early” rule. But, Mom’s always right! We had plenty of time, enough to sit outside of security and eat Cinnabons together, quality American food I wouldn’t get for another two months.

When I arrived in Miami, I found the currency exchange counter, which was a hike and a half away but that was well worth it. I walked up with 180 USD and walked away with 5540 Dominican Pesos, what a great feeling! Naturally, I also managed to make it to the Starbucks not once, but twice (note: only two blog entries, and already, I’ve mentioned Starbucks). The nice lady practically laughed out loud as she asked for my name for the second time, politely pretending to not know the answer.

I arrived in Santo Domingo, the capital city of the DR, at 2:50 PM and was warmly welcomed by Becca and Maximo, who both work for Esperanza. They took me to my hotel so I could put my bags down and we all (two other interns, Becca, Aaron, and I) headed into the colonial district to explore. In a way, it seems like it was just yesterday that I was touring the streets of Santo Domingo, but at the same time, I feel much more independent. Becca took us to her favorite Haitian restaurant (first meal in the DR and I’m eating Haitian food, how ironic), which was FANTASTIC. Rice and beans never tasted so good. It was a local family-owned place and I felt right at home. The people are so incredibly welcoming and forgiving of my not-so-fine-tuned Dominican slang.

A few things I have already learned:

1. Babies are communal property. In the US, mothers are very protective of their children. Here, mothers pass around their children. I don’t know if it’s because they want to share the love (they’re so darn cute) or if they’re getting too hot to hold them. It’s probably a little of both, but I’m happy to hold a Dominican baby anyday!

2. There is a calculated madness to the driving here. It looks like there are no rules, but Becca says there are.

3. In the month of December, all Dominicans get double pay so they can afford to buy all their families Christmas presents!! What a fabulous idea! The US should probably adopt that law…perhaps as an economic stimulus package? ;)

For the next few days, I’ll be training in the Central Office. Updates to come!

A Leap of Faith

After weeks, I finally decided to name this blog, “Acting Justly, Loving Mercy” after a line in one of my favorite songs, “God of Justice” by Tim Hughes.

There are many things about this song that I love, but more than anything, it reminds me that however small my role may be in this great fight for social justice, I have to trust that God will be with me every step of the way. This is what they call a leap of faith, and let me tell you, it won’t be easy.

In two days, I will get on a plane in D.C., transfer in Miami, and arrive in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic. It will be the beginning of my two month stay in the DR, where I will be working as a communications intern for Esperanza International, a microfinance institution focused on giving Dominicans the opportunity to lift themselves out of poverty through entrepreneurship. I’ve been dreaming about this for months now, and I can’t believe it’s finally here. I’m more nervous than anyone could ever imagine, but I know this experience will be incredibly rewarding. I will leave behind the comforts of home, family, and friends for the hot sun of the DR that I came to know well on high school mission trips to Yaguate and Barahona, DR with the National Presbyterian Church and Foundation for Peace.  This time, I’ll be living in Santiago, DR with a pastor and his wife and three children in their twenties.  Oh and a dog named Bobby…I’ve never had a dog, but my sister has been begging my parents to buy one since we were about eight, so it’s about time!

I am so lucky to have such incredibly supportive family and friends, and I promise to keep you updated with many stories and memories I make this summer!

Un abrazo <3

_______________________________

Excerpt from “God of Justice”

To act justly every day

Loving mercy in every way

Walking humbly before you God

You have shown what You require,

Freely we’ve received

Now freely we give.